Making holes is an essential part of jewellery making but it can be a challenge in a home studio, especially if you want to work in a range of different materials, thicknesses and hole sizes. But what tool is best for drilling holes for jewellery making?
The holes you make could be decorative or functional - for connections - jump rings, ear wires, rivets or saw piercing. Here are some of the most popular hole making tools we use. Some are versatile jack-of-all-trade pieces of equipment, some do a limited task but do it well. Read on to find out how each one works, the advantages and disadvantages and what to look for if you are setting up your own home jewellery workshop or studio.
Stay safe in the workshop. We recommend wearing safety glasses or a face visor when using any type of powered rotary tool. Make sure you don't have any loose clothing and that long hair is tied back.
In the jewellery school we have three main methods for putting holes in our work.
Pillar drill / drill press.
Pendant Motor / Micro Motor.
Hole Punch Pliers.
We've also looked at Dremel / Rotary Tools as we know they are a popular home workshop choice for our students.
Pillar Drill / Drill Press
A pillar drill, the smaller bench top ones are sometimes called a drill press, is a drill fixed to a sliding metal pole. The height of the drill can be adjusted as can the speed.
It can hold a range of drill bit sizes and is a very strong and secure method of drilling because the drill itself can only move up and down. It's very controlled and ideal for drilling into flat and shaped items.
As a jeweller you are likely to drill small holes so a smaller, less powerful drill will work well.
To use a drill press, start by making a centre punch mark where you want to drill your hole. Start with a small 1mm - 1.5mm drill bit. If you want to drill a larger hole, start small and work your way up to the desired size. Place the work on a wooden drill block and line up the drill bit to the hole by bringing down the lever. Once you are in position, turn on the drill to a low speed and add some wax or burrlife to the drill bit. Hold your metal securely as you drill. Bring the drill lever down slowly and steadily to the work. Let the drill do the cutting - don't force it through the metal. If the speed and pressure are correct then you will drill through easily and a nice neat spiral of metal will be removed from the hole.
ADVANTAGES
secure and controlled
variable speed
easy to use
can use any size drill bit
easy to change drill bits
DISADVANTAGES
can only be used for drilling
can be awkward to use for oddly shaped objects
takes up bench space
needs a permanent home so not so good if you don't have a permanent workspace
COST: £100 - £250
Pendant Motor
A pendant motor is a really versatile addition to any jewellers workshop. It can be used for filing, drilling, sanding, burring and polishing all types of work. It has a small motor which is hug up above the workbench, connected to this is a flexible drive shaft which ends in a hand piece - this is where you attach your drill bit, burr or polishing mop. The machine is controlled by a foot pedal under the bench meaning you have two hands free to control the work and control the tool.
There are different hand pieces available for pendant motors / micro motors. A multi-chuck hand piece can hold any size of drill bit or shank and the bits are changed by opening and closing the handpiece using a chuck. This type can hold any size bit but changing them is fiddly and time consuming. A quick change hand piece will only hold one size of shank (so for drilling you need to buy shanked drill bits) but it is much easier to change the bit - just flip the handle or twist the end (depending on the machine) change the bit and flip/twist to close again. Some older types of pendant or micro motor may have a collet system though this is much more common in dremel / rotary type tools.
To use a pendant motor for making a hole, start by making a centre punch mark where you want to drill your hole. Start with a small 1mm - 1.5mm drill bit. If you want to drill a larger hole, start small and work your way up to the desired size. Place the work on a wooden drill block and line up the drill bit to the hole. Once you are in position, press the pedal to a low speed and add some wax or burrlife to the drill bit. Hold your metal securely as you drill. Bring the drill bit slowly and steadily to the work - taking care to keep everything straight and perpendicular and let the drill do the cutting - don't force it through the metal. If the speed and pressure are correct then you will drill through easily and a nice neat spiral of metal will be removed from the hole.
ADVANTAGES
versatile - can be used for lots of processes
a hanging motor means it won't take up much bench space
variable speed
foot pedal gives good control and leaves two hands free
easy to use
strong and durable
can be used with a hammer handpiece for stone setting
DISADVANTAGES
needs a permanent home so not so good if you don't have a permanent workspace
relies on your steady hand to control the tool and drill straight
expensive investment
moving parts are not held securely so it can run away with you
can slip easily so require more care and skill
can have bit of a kick as the whole flexshaft has moving elements
limited maximum size drill bit
COST: £200 - £800
Micro Motor
A micro motor fulfils a similar function in the workshop as a pendant motor. Instead of having a motor attached to a hand piece with a flexible drive shaft, the motor is in the hand piece which is connected to the body of the machine with a coiled electrical wire. This gives a gentler feel to the machine and it's especially good for jewellers with hand, arm or shoulder issues as it's less aggressive to control. The body of the machine sits of the workbench and has a speed control dial and on/off switch. Most micro motors also have a foot pedal to control the machine - some are just an on/of switch and some have a speed control in the foot pedal. Most micromotors have a quick change hand piece but multi chuck versions are available.
To use a micromotor for making a hole, start by making a centre punch mark where you want to drill your hole. Start with a small 1mm - 1.5mm drill bit. If you want to drill a larger hole, start small and work your way up to the desired size. Place the work on a wooden drill block and line up the drill bit to the hole. Once you are in position, set the dial to a low speed, press the pedal and add some wax or burrlife to the drill bit. Hold your metal securely as you drill. Bring the drill bit slowly and steadily to the work - taking care to keep everything straight and perpendicular and let the drill do the cutting - don't force it through the metal. If the speed and pressure are correct then you will drill through easily and a nice neat spiral of metal will be removed from the hole.
ADVANTAGES
versatile
doesn't take much space
portable
easy to use
highly controlled
foot pedal gives good control and leaves two hands free
gentle to work with
can be used with a hammer handpiece for stone setting
DISADVANTAGES
relies on your steady hand to control the tool and drill straight
expensive investment
can slip easily so require more care and skill
low torque - you'd need to work up through sizes of drill bit to get larger holes
limited maximum size drill bit
quick change hand piece requires shanked drill bits
COST: £200 - £2000
Hole Punch Pliers
Hole punch pliers are quick and easy to use but they do have some limitations. They allow you to make holes in thin sheet metals without the need to dangerous and expensive power tools. You'll use your own hand power to push the pin in the jaws through your metal.
They work as you would expect. Mark the position for the hole and centre punch if desired. Line up the pin to the position you want the hole and squeeze the pliers firmly. The pin should pierce the metal and leave a neat hole. You may need to use some flat pliers to pull away the little punched piece.
ADVANTAGES
cheap and accessible
very safe to use
quick and easy
portable
neat finish
DISADVANTAGES
only make one size of hole (although they are available in different sizes)
only work on thinnish sheet metals. copper, silver, aluminium, gold in less than 0.8mm
can only place the hole at the edge of the sheet - the length of the plier jaws limit how far they can reach
rely on hand strength to punch through the metal
COST: £15 - £25
Dremel/Rotary Tools
Dremel is a brand name that has come to mean a small handheld rotary tool, much like Hoover is used ton refer to all vacuum cleaners. Dremel (and generic rotary tools) have a small barrel shaped motor with a speed control and on/off switch. The can be used with a flexible drive shaft or the bits and burrs can be used straight into the barrel of the tool. Most dremel type tools use a collet system to attach the drill bits and burrs to the tool. This is more versatile than quick change hand pieces but not as versatile as a multi-chuck. Dremels often come supplied with a range of finishing accessories - sanding drums, abrasive wheels etc. Most of these are a bit too coarse for fine jewellery work but can be used to add textures.
To use a dremel for making a hole, start by making a centre punch mark where you want to drill your hole. Start with a small 1mm - 1.5mm drill bit. If you want to drill a larger hole, start small and work your way up to the desired size. Place the work on a wooden drill block and line up the drill bit to the hole. Once you are in position, set the drill to a low speed and switch the drill on, add some wax or burrlife to the drill bit. Hold your metal securely as you drill. Bring the drill bit slowly and steadily to the work - taking care to keep everything straight and perpendicular and let the drill do the cutting - don't force it through the metal. If the speed and pressure are correct then you will drill through easily and a nice neat spiral of metal will be removed from the hole.
ADVANTAGES
versatile
doesn't take much space
portable
easy to use
affordable
a drill press frame can be bought to make drilling holes more precise
DISADVANTAGES
relies on your steady hand to control the tool and drill straight
can be tricky to use - the on/off switch is usually in a tricky place to reach
can slip easily so require more care and skill
the lowest speed is still quite fast for small scale work
collets can be tricky
not precise for fine work, the machine can be a bit shaky to use
COST: £50 - £100
WHICH ONE DO I CHOOSE?
With so many options it can be difficult to choose the best tool to use at home for drilling holes. Whether you are drilling functional or decorative holes you need the best tool for you.
What do you want to make holes in?
If you are only looking to make holes in thin sheet metal - to attach a jump ring or ear wire for example - then a pair of hole punch pliers will be perfect. If you want holes in thicker metal or more awkward shapes then you'll need something more versatile
Versatility - Do you need to be able to use the tool for other things?
If you need one tool that will do everything then it's possible - but to have one tool that will do everything well is expensive. Think about what your priority is and choose a tool that will suit that. Lot's of jewellers will use a combination of tools to get the best from each one.
If you need something sturdy, reliable and strong then a Dremel or pendant motor will be great for drilling, polishing, sanding and grinding. Strength but not fine precision.
If you want to drill small holes or do stone setting a high quality pendant motor or micro motor might suit you better. They won't have the torque or strength of a rotary tool or motor but they will give precision and accuracy.
Tools that do just one thing often do it better than tools that do lots of things - a pillar drill / bench press drill is only used for drilling so is perfectly set up to do so.
Budget?
Every jeweller is working to a budget so think carefully about what you can afford and whether it would be better to wait to save up for the right tool. Hole punch pliers are the cheapest but most limited option. Dremel is a popular starting tool but you may end up upgrading later. It can be a good idea to start with something entry level and upgrade if you need to. Keep the packaging and instruction manuals - there is a good resale market for second hand jewellery tools.
You might also consider buying second hand. Look out for brand names such as Foredom or Marathon and make sure you buy from someone you trust.
Avoid buying those branded tools from third party sellers and auction sites - if a price seems to good to be true it is probably not the real thing.
How much will you use it?
If you are a professional (or aspiring professional) then you need tools which do justice to your work and help you work most efficiently. It might be worth spending a bit more to speed up your process - time is money. If you aren't going to use it very often then you might not need the most expensive and fanciest option - use that budget to buy something you'll use more.
Physical limitations?
If you have any physical limitations - particularly hand, arm or shoulder issues - then a micromotor or good quality pendant motor would be most suitable. If you struggle with fine motor skills choose one with a quick change hand piece to make things easier.
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